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Author Topic: How to take apart a Lenco armtube?  (Read 3152 times)
wer
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« on: October 06, 2010, 09:44:37 PM »

Hi,

Have decided to cannibalize my L78 arm to fit my "new" GE VR-II cartridge.
The headshell already has a suitable hole for the joystick (just slightly too small), and the armtube has the same diametre as the Thorens ones, so it just needs a bit of crbon fibre tubing and superglue.

The only problem i have is to separate the front piece of the arm from the tube itself - would anybody know whether it is glued or press fitted? If nothing else, is it feasible to non-destructibly remove the insert with the 4 holes from the front of the arm tube?

Thank you for your help.
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Werner (wer - just my initials, not a nick!)
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willbewill
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« Reply #1 on: October 06, 2010, 09:59:29 PM »

It is press fit but you also have to remove the small pin prior to pulling apart.
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malcolm ("You can't shine if you don't burn" - Kevin Ayers)

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wer
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« Reply #2 on: October 06, 2010, 10:08:37 PM »

Thank you Malcolm, it helps a lot to know that  icon_salut
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Werner (wer - just my initials, not a nick!)
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classicus
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« Reply #3 on: November 08, 2010, 12:33:07 PM »

hello,
Waiting for parts to continue working on my GL88,

I'm having fun starting to work on a L75 I have received yesterday. Global condition ok apart for oxydation on painted or chromed parts...

The tone arm needs badly a lot of care.



V blocks are dead the right one is broken and stuck to knife's edge...

That is straight forward...


I have an issue with the back part of the arm which leans down too much...  sad
How can you separate both parts, I see what seems  two pins or are they screws undecided I cannot see any allen screw recess?

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René

Sources:  Musical Fidelity M6 CD/DAC + FreeBox  => SPDIF => M6CD DAC
+ GL88 "Gentle Lenco", Koetsu Rosewood Signature Platinium + Audiomods =>StepUp VECTEUR => Pre Yamaha C50 =>  [Audion Silver Night MKII SE  + EAT 300B]= sold
Supra Classic 6mm => Speakers:  G-K-F Ariane
ropie
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WWW
« Reply #4 on: November 08, 2010, 12:41:58 PM »

Classicus,

there is a tonearm available here if you'd rather 'cannibalise' - http://www.lencoheaven.net/forum/index.php?topic=4068.0
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GP49
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« Reply #5 on: November 08, 2010, 06:12:56 PM »

Or use the dental floss/superglue technique to change that flexible coupling to a rigid one.  The rubber isolator inside the arm has deteriorated with age, much like the V-blocks have.


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Gene
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« Reply #6 on: December 05, 2010, 07:27:36 PM »

Hi guys,

I'm trying to get the tonearm connector off the l75 tonearm with very little success. Has anyone got any pictures to help with its removal?

Macolm, you mention that the pin needs removing, is this the pin on the top of the bayonet connector? I cant get it to shift.

Any help really greatfully recieved. Rewiring the l75 would be a great how to topic.

Thanks,


Alex
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wer
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« Reply #7 on: December 05, 2010, 09:37:12 PM »

Yes Alex, it is the one at the top of the bajonet connector.
It is unlikely that it can be removed non-destructively, but after you get it out there still is the problem of removing the connector. Possibly heating it up with a hot air gun to a temperature just below the deformation point of the plastic insert might do the trick?
If you succeed, replacing the pin is not a big problem - i have some steel bar stock (2 mm) which should be a press fit (possibly supported by a drop of superglue). Putting a couple of proper size pieces in an envelope would not be a problem, just tell me how long the one was that you removed.
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Werner (wer - just my initials, not a nick!)
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willbewill
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« Reply #8 on: December 06, 2010, 08:20:22 AM »

The most promising method I have heard about, not tried yet, is to drill a small hole from the other side directly in line with the pin and to push it out. The drill bit should be small enough to avoid hitting the connectors ans just go through the plastic.
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malcolm ("You can't shine if you don't burn" - Kevin Ayers)

colorIf what I'm hearing is colouration, then bring on the whole rainbow color
skippingjack
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« Reply #9 on: December 06, 2010, 03:09:37 PM »

Thanks for all the info and thanks for the offer  Wer, if I drill the pin out I'll drop you a line.

I have a pendant drill at work that should make drilling the arm tube easier. I'll have a go tomorrow and post my results.

Thanks again,

Alex
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skippingjack
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« Reply #10 on: December 08, 2010, 11:55:38 AM »

Hi Guys,

Just a quick update. So far I've managed to butcher 2 l75 armtubes. I tried to push the pin out from a hole drilled underneath unsuccessfully and even completely drilling the pin out didn't work.

After that I failure I decided to autopsy an l75 armtube. I now have a complete connector and an l75 cut in cross section so the pin and connnector arrangement is visible. I'll put a picture of this up later today, as I think it will be of use to other people considering wiring the L75 tonearm.

Alex
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wer
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« Reply #11 on: December 08, 2010, 05:17:53 PM »

I got my pin out using (almost new) Vise-Grips. Worked partially, so i then cut off as much as i could above the bajonet with a Dremel and drilled out the rest with a 1 mm drill. When i got through i could remove the stub together with the drill bit  smiley
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Werner (wer - just my initials, not a nick!)
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skippingjack
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« Reply #12 on: December 08, 2010, 09:46:09 PM »

Hi Wer,

Glad you had better luck getting the connector out than I did, I'm going to drill out the connector on another lenco arm and then fit the donor connector that I've just cut out.

Speaking of which, here's a picture of the autopsied L75 arm:



The connector is about 35mm long, which is a bit longer than I expected. The pin goes in a good 2mm into the arm tube so it definitely needs drilling out if you want to have a hope of removing the connector successfully.

Alex
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wer
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« Reply #13 on: December 08, 2010, 11:04:02 PM »

Alex, do you think the (metal) connector is glued to the arm tube or is it a press fit?
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Werner (wer - just my initials, not a nick!)
No esoteric audio equipment (except for my wife)
skippingjack
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« Reply #14 on: December 08, 2010, 11:25:37 PM »

I've looked at the pin using an eyeglass and I can't see a trace of glue on the pin, so it must be a pressure fit.
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