Eminent Technology ET2- is it really that hard?

[Bare_earth13]

Hey all,

Just scored an infamous ET2 air bearing tonearm, and the information I'm getting from various places
suggests this is a difficult arm to set up and live with. I have never owned an air bearing tonearm before,
and I'm worried that I might have made a mistake.
 

Is it really that hard to deal with??
FWIW I'm mechanically inclined, and I'm passionate about getting the best sound.
Is that all I need?

Mike.



 

[daiwok]

I have one, never mounted it as the manual is like a Phd Thesis and then I read about all the problems that people have. I guess its one of those arms almost like the Clearaudio TQI where you can tinker all day and when you hit the sweet spot its amazing, but it is never always hitting that sweet spot consistently which is the problem 

[rfgumby]

I've been working with one myself using it on the newest table I'm currently building.  I guess we'll learn together.  I just know they have to be very level.  Another trick is to remove the connection point at the end of the arm wand and wire the arm straight through from the clips to the RCA connectors in back.  Apparently that original plug isn't the best for some reason.  The later versions (2.5) is reported to be less fussy with it's revised manifold, but needs to operate at relatively high pressure (~60 psi).

[kost]

I have one ,it is fantastic,i will try it on a Lenco soon.
It s not so hard....

[rfgumby]

I have one ,it is fantastic,i will try it on a Lenco soon.
It s not so hard....

We can compare notes.  That'll be fun.  Good luck!

[daiwok]

but needs to operate at relatively high pressure (~60 psi)

That's pretty high !! that's in Kuzma Airline territory  Lucky I might be getting a compressor working at 120 psi for a new toy of mine 

[Bare_earth13]

I've been working with one myself using it on the newest table I'm currently building.  I guess we'll learn together. 

Mine is completely stock, I'm totally green about air bearings, and I don't really know were to start. I went to their website (and vinyl engine) to see if I could find a mounting template; I see they have the dimensions of their jig used on SOTA's. I might be able to mount it based on those numbers. The pump and all accessories are stock, too. My thinking was that it would provide a good start, and I could upgrade it as I go along.

What cart are you planning to use with yours??

Mike.

[Bare_earth13]

I have one, never mounted it...

You should mount it and see how it stacks up against your MG1. 

Mike.

[rfgumby]

Mine is completely stock, I'm totally green about air bearings, and I don't really know were to start. I went to their website (and vinyl engine) to see if I could find a mounting template; I see they have the dimensions of their jig used on SOTA's. I might be able to mount it based on those numbers. The pump and all accessories are stock, too. My thinking was that it would provide a good start, and I could upgrade it as I go along.

What cart are you planning to use with yours??

Mike.

Set the arm tube in the middle of it's ability to slide forward and backward.  Then set the arm on the table and make sure the stroke can reach the park position outside the record surface, and make it all the way to the label in the lead out groove.  This will allow only a little space when parked to change the record.  Then move the arm towards the back of the deck so the end of the front of the arm tube is slightly behind the center line of the record.  This is because a "normal" cart places the stylus tip in front of the two mounting holes a fair bit.

The point this then sets is the spot for the single mounting bolt.  I didn't get it quite right the first time and had to make a second hole for all this to be correct.  David may have the dimension of where this bolt needs to be relative to the spindle, that may help.

After getting that single bolt in the right place, you mount the arm mast (with the three pointy set screws in it), then rotate the arm so it will track straight relative to the record, then level that piece with the 3 set screws once the rest of the arm gets popped into place.  That should get you close and you can fine tune as you go from there.

[Bare_earth13]

Set the arm tube in the middle of it's ability to slide forward and backward.  Then set the arm on the table and make sure the stroke can reach the park position outside the record surface, and make it all the way to the label in the lead out groove.  This will allow only a little space when parked to change the record.  Then move the arm towards the back of the deck so the end of the front of the arm tube is slightly behind the center line of the record.  This is because a "normal" cart places the stylus tip in front of the two mounting holes a fair bit.

The point this then sets is the spot for the single mounting bolt.  I didn't get it quite right the first time and had to make a second hole for all this to be correct.  David may have the dimension of where this bolt needs to be relative to the spindle, that may help.

After getting that single bolt in the right place, you mount the arm mast (with the three pointy set screws in it), then rotate the arm so it will track straight relative to the record, then level that piece with the 3 set screws once the rest of the arm gets popped into place.  That should get you close and you can fine tune as you go from there.

Thank you, Scott! Very useful! I appreciate it.
FWIW, here is the drawing I was referring to:

[rfgumby]

Great, and thanks for posting that print for Sotas, as it applies to all tables it's mounted on.  So it looks like the bolt to spindle dimension is 8.305".  That was calculated from the dimensions on your print.

It will be interesting to see how close I got with guessing on my installation.  In this scenario, close will probably be close enough.  The arm wand sliding forward and backward allows for a little adjustment, but be careful as that adjustment is intended for cartridge alignment with carts that have differing diamond to mounting bolt distances.

The dimensions for tonearm wiring and air hose holes are not critical and probably only apply to that Sota armboard.

[Sk8Ter]

This Thread is forever old...but that I would like to be continued

updates? Impressions etc??





Lawrence

[dauphine]

I've also got an ET2. I have 4 wands, the pump, the trafo for the 110Vac/60Hz to make the pump work with our 230Vac/50Hz, I have the setup jigs, the manual - the works and its condition is like new.

And I just can't bring myself to remove my Micro arm and mount and setup this contraption.

I have a spare pristine 301 grease bearing turntable here awaiting a plinth - maybe I'll use the ET2 on this one.

About 18 years ago, a customer brought a VPI HW19?? turntable here with an ET arm with lots of wand problems, leaking air hoses and a very poor armcable rca jack installation. The rca's were mounted in a little acrylic box, fastened to the plinth with plasticine. What a mess!!

The latter was easily fixed by discarding the rca 'box' but all 4 wands which came with the VPI had one or both channels out.

I can't remember any longer how long it took to repair the wands but at long last the job was done and all 4 wands were working again as they should.

To crown this nighmare, the cartridge was a dirty white v/d Hul plastic affair riding so low vehicles passing my house caused it to bottom out. This lot went back to its owner with my best wishes of good riddance.

All of this, gentlemen - put me off these arms probably forever.

Why do I have the ET2 I have now? It was given to me as a present. The donor had a near nervous breakdown because of it.

andre

[Sk8Ter]

want to trade for a rabco arm?

[Chopsaw]

I also have an ET2 tonearm. There are a couple of bits missing and the long hollow tube is damaged but I'm hopeful that I can make something of it.