Nigel's Speed Controller parts list, schematics and instructions

[nigel]

Here you will find all the documentation relating to the Nigel's Speed Controller PCB.
Information will be added as it becomes available!
All documents are subject to change! Always check you have the latest version before starting anything (all documents have an issue number at the foot of each page)

Parts Lists - please also read all additional information below!

You can download the UK/EU version of the parts list here -
https://www.dropbox.com/s/jqbdq3j1psngnpq/ssb_parts_EU_1.8.pdf?dl=0

On peut télécharger la liste des composants en Français là -
https://www.dropbox.com/s/q3suj72cv4npxg0/ssb_parts_EU_1.8_FR.pdf?dl=0

You can download the US/Canada version of the parts list here -
https://www.dropbox.com/s/ko6qbx03j8tkrlp/ssb_parts_US_1.5.pdf?dl=0

Parts list additional information

1. All parts (except the XR2206 integrated circuit) can be purchased from Farnell. Farnell order codes are given on the parts list. To order, visit www.farnell.com and select your country. In most countries, Farnell will accept orders from hobbyists, but not all. If your local Farnell will not accept your order, or in case of other problems, you can always order from Farnell Export in the UK, who will ship worldwide. In the US & Canada, you can order from Newark and the US/Canada version of the parts list gives Newark order codes.
2. The column "order quantity" on the component list sometimes indicates more parts than are actually needed. This is because Farnell have a minimum order quantity on all parts. Newark are more flexible in this respect, so those in the US and Canada will find that they do not have to over-order many of the parts.
3. The XR2206 IC can be purchased from ebay, but this part is now obsolete from the manufacturer and many parts being sold on ebay are counterfeit or faulty.

I have been trying to maintain a supply of good, tested devices for sale - see ad in Traders' section.

4. You can build a controller with 1, 2 or 3 speeds. (33/45/78 rpm)

The potentiometers for speed control may be mounted on the PCB and, if you are building a 2-speed controller, a PCB-mounted toggle switch can be used for speed selection, as below -



This is the simplest and cheapest method, the potentiometers are of the screwdriver-adjustment type, so the PCB must be mounted so that  the potentiometers and switch can be accessed through the front panel, like this -



These parts are listed on the parts list and the values given for a 2-position switch are for a toggle switch ONLY.

However, if you want to build a 3-speed controller OR would prefer to mount the speed selection switch off the PCB
then additional parts are needed, which must be wired to the PCB as follows (note: if you build with a rotary switch, but only use 2 positions instead of 3, then you still need to fit the values listed for a 3-position rotary switch).




This allows the controls to be mounted on the front panel of the unit, as below -





The potentiometers used must be 10K ohm linear, 10-turns or more, otherwise the controller will be difficult to adjust.

Example (Farnell) - http://uk.farnell.com/bi-technologies-tt-electronics/7286r10kl-25/potentiometer-ww-7-8-10-turn-10k/dp/1520669

You will require one potentiometer for each speed. (These replace R9, R10 & R13 on the PCB)

The speed selection switch should be of the rotary type,  2 -pole and MUST be of the MAKE-BEFORE-BREAK or SHORTING type. THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT!!. Failure to observe this point will result in the destruction of your controller! (This replaces SW1 on the PCB)

Example (Farnell) - http://uk.farnell.com/lorlin/ck1035/switch-2pole-6-pos/dp/1123691

The amplitude (output voltage) control may also be replaced with a 20/22K Linear 10-turn potentiometer, similar to those used for the speed control, which replaces R15 on the PCB.

Example (Farnell) - http://uk.farnell.com/bi-technologies-tt-electronics/7286r20kl-25/potentiometer-ww-7-8-10-turn-20k/dp/1520674

Note : you may be able to find suitable 10-turn potentiometers on ebay at a substantial cost saving. I can't recommend any particular supplier, but I have had good experience in the past buying directly from suppliers in China, albeit that they take a long time to arrive...

For US and Canada only

The transformers specified on the parts list are made by Triad Magnetics http://www.triadmagnetics.com, who have many distributors in the US other than Newark. I do not recommend that you purchase the transformers from Newark. Both are cheaper (and in stock!) at Digikey http://www.digikey.com or visit the Triad Magnetics website and find the nearest distributor in your state. Alternatively, the transformers can be purchased from other suppliers - see below.

The heatsink specified on the US parts list is different to the one specified for Europe, as Newark do not stock a direct equivalent and ordering the UK part incurs an extra $20 shipping. The Newark part is expensive and I have not tested it myself for suitability. Instead, I recommend purchasing a heatsink from ebay - see "alternative sources" below.

The toggle switch SW1 (see first photo above) is only available from UK stock, Newark do not have any equivalent in US stock. This means that this part incurs an additional $20 freight charge. Unless some clever person can find an equivalent from another supplier, then I guess no-one in the US or Canada is going to use the PCB-mounted toggle switch option for speed selection ...



Alternative sources

Although Farnell (or Newark in the US) stock most of the parts needed for the project, some of the larger and more expensive parts can be bought from other suppliers and may be substantially cheaper. In particular, the transformers and heatsink.

Heatsink
For the heatsink, there are many available on ebay. A good size is around 140 x 81 x 44mm - you should be able to find this one by searching "heatsink LM3886". Be careful though, there are many smaller heatsinks available, so check the sizes carefully!

Transformers
There are many suppliers of suitable transformers for the controller, the generic specifications are as below -

Supply transformer
Type : toroidal, flying leads
Primary winding : 1 x 230V or 2 x 115V (UK/EU and other 230V territories)
                     : 1 x 115V or 2 x 115V (US/Canada and other 115V territories)

Secondary winding : 2 x 22V or 2 x 24V (the lower voltage is preferred)
Rated power : 63VA minimum

Output transformer
Type : toroidal, flying leads
Primary winding : 1 x 230V or 2 x 115V (for nominal 230V output)
                     : 1 x 115V or 2 x 115V (for nominal 115V output)

Secondary winding : 2 x 15V
Rated power : 80VA minimum



Schematics / circuit diagrams

Circuit diagrams of the PCB can be downloaded here -

Page 1 - https://www.dropbox.com/s/oywhzic8z1m4hj2/cct_1.6%231.pdf

Page 2 - https://www.dropbox.com/s/d8fl5isgbiha6pk/cct_1.6%232.pdf

Page 3 - https://www.dropbox.com/s/uggi1hd51flyhxi/cct_1.6%233.pdf


"Assembly aid"

Download and print, to help to locate components on the PCB -

    1:1 - https://www.dropbox.com/s/nxwmsuw3xb3d83g/assy_aid_1.3.pdf
1.45:1 - https://www.dropbox.com/s/c2e0uzdjuwnl1xk/assy_aid_large_1.3.pdf


Assembly instructions

Detailed instructions for assembling the PCB and the finished unit!

Part 1 - https://www.dropbox.com/s/i02lrtky190rolo/Assembly%20of%20the%20speed%20controller%20_Part1.pdf
Part 2 - https://www.dropbox.com/s/v09bq0snb2k3zlc/Assembly%20of%20the%20speed%20controller%20_Part2.pdf
Part 3 - https://www.dropbox.com/s/bfz4o72y1298eg0/Assembly%20of%20the%20speed%20controller%20_Part3.pdf
Part 4 - https://www.dropbox.com/s/q3ur0j4jqvis61y/Assembly%20of%20the%20speed%20controller%20_Part4.pdf
Part 5 - https://www.dropbox.com/s/l3zq0bnm6zl4qcv/Assembly%20of%20the%20speed%20controller%20_Part5.pdf
Part 6 - https://www.dropbox.com/s/zaglailz8iql6b3/Assembly%20of%20the%20speed%20controller%20_Part6.pdf
Part 7 - https://www.dropbox.com/s/c0nbcgi900dec65/Assembly%20of%20the%20speed%20controller%20_Part7.pdf
Part 8 - https://www.dropbox.com/s/vvlhyvq1mj0gm6o/Assembly%20of%20the%20speed%20controller%20_Part8.pdf

How to choose a case

Some notes on how to choose a suitable case-

https://www.dropbox.com/s/4zffysruau3c55l/Choosing%20a%20case.pdf

Interesting Links

Here I will post any links which may be of interest.
Firstly, these two, concerning the mounting of power semiconductors (like the chip amps used in the controller!)
Thanks to Piero (Gatto Murr), on Lenco Référence, for these -

http://sound.westhost.com/heatsinks.htm (see section 13 in particular)
http://www.onsemi.com/pub_link/Collateral/AN1040-D.PDF

[nigel]

Admins, can we make this thread a sticky?

[itskeith]

Morning everyone,

Seconded ..... please  

Admins, can we make this thread a sticky?

Post edit:

Good point David and agreed:

Thanks Nigel for the posting and hard work as always !

   

[daiwok]

Sticky done !

Thanks Nigel for the posting and hard work as always ! 

[cygnus x1]

Nigel,
 Where can I find the schematic? Thanks

Jeff

[nigel]

Hi Jeff,

(cygnus x1 ... Rush fan, perchance?) The schematics aren't anywhere, just yet. I'll be adding them here, shortly 

Keep watching the first post in this thread for updates.

[cygnus x1]

Nigel,
  Yep you guessed it. I'm giving my age away, but I was a roadie for a year during their American tour way back when. Plus my wife say my DIY audio addiction, like sailing, is a black hole where I throw money.

[wer]

Hi Nigel,

Apologies if this has already been answered, but is there a build and parts list for 33/78?
Have no 45's, and do not want any 
Thank you for your determination and patience.

[nigel]

I'm giving my age away, but I was a roadie for a year during their American tour way back when.

That's just 
Fine band, saw them many times in London and they're still doing it, of course. I might just have to play A Farewell to Kings, now 

[nigel]

Apologies if this has already been answered, but is there a build and parts list for 33/78?

Hmm ... well it's perfectly possible, but before we go there - what turntables exactly will you be powering with the controller and what exactly do you hope to achieve with it? 

Here's my reason for asking: if your turntable has the original (mechanical) speed change mechanism remaining, then I would use that to change speed between 33/78. My understanding is that a lot of older 78s actually aren't 78rpm at all, but some other speed close to that.
Build a controller for one speed only (33) and use that to give you an easy way to fine-tune the speed either side of 78 rpm. If more variation was needed, we could always play with the component values.
If, however, you're using a PTP, then you really will need to build the controller to give you two separate settings for 33 and 78.
Let me know what you've got in mind and I can come up with a list for you 

[Chris65]

Here's my reason for asking: if your turntable has the original (mechanical) speed change mechanism remaining, then I would use that to change speed between 33/78. My understanding is that a lot of older 78s actually aren't 78rpm at all, but some other speed close to that.
Build a controller for one speed only (33) and use that to give you an easy way to fine-tune the speed either side of 78 rpm.

I agree with Nigel here, & that's exactly how I use the controller: set the turntable to 78rpm and use the 33rpm selection on the controller.
Although I have 78rpm on the controller, it is much slower to start up (with the idler at the 33rpm position) & I prefer to stop the deck each time I change a record/side (78's are bit fragile ), so that would mean switching the controller on & off a lot!, so I also use the on/off switch on the deck.

It's still possible to play 78's with a PTP deck of course, but I can't recall off hand if you can set the idler to the 78rpm position on a PTP.
Maybe an idler disengage mechanism or platter brake would work.....mmm, got me thinking now!

From my rough measurements, I would guess that with the controller selected to 33rpm & the idler at the 78rpm position, the range of rpm is about 70 - 90rpm, so that gives plenty of adjustment.

[Ulf]

Hi Nigel!

I cant seem to find the HEATSINK COMPOUND 317950 when trying to order from Farnell, is there something else to substitute it with?

What wire (gauge or type) can you recommend for internal use, connecting pots and toggel switch and a last question,  the circuit boards do need some sort of spacers from the box (if metal) any comment on that


...Ulf

[nigel]

It's still possible to play 78's with a PTP deck of course, but I can't recall off hand if you can set the idler to the 78rpm position on a PTP.

No 78 position on a PTP, so in that instance you do need to use the 78 setting on the controller. 

I cant seem to find the HEATSINK COMPOUND 317950 when trying to order from Farnell, is there something else to substitute it with?

OK ... this is from your local branch of Farnell, I'm guessing (the part number is definitely correct and it's in stock in the UK).
However - there is a good alternative. Actually, a better alternative Search ebay for "Arctic Silver 5 Thermal compound" - this stuff is sold for use on CPUs in PCs, games consoles, etc. I've tried it and it works very slightly better than the electrolube compound I specify in the parts list. It is a little more expensive, though. There are cheaper compounds available on ebay, but I wouldn't use them, as they are "untested" in our application. The Arctic Silver stuff works very well.

While you're on ebay, take a look at seller "hifispot168". In their shop, you will find a heatsink "Aluminum HEAT SINK FOR LM3886/TDA7293 Amplifier Board"
- this is also suitable for the controller, as an alternative to the hetasink from Farnell. The dimensions are very different and it may fit better with the case you intend to use. Again, I have used this heatsink (and this supplier) myself and it works fine.

Note that I DON'T recommend buying the TDA7293V amplifier chips from ebay. They may be fakes or rejects. Buy them from Farnell.

What wire (gauge or type) can you recommend for internal use, connecting pots and toggel switch

Any kind of wire is OK. Thinner is better, as it's easier to use. Stranded wire is better than single-strand, as it's less likely to break. If you can get lots of different colours, then that's good, as you can colour-code your wires.
Technically, anything at all is OK. If you have some multiway cable that you can strip open (old computer leads?) then that's fine.

For the internal mains wiring, strip open some mains cable and use the cores from that (old IEC lead, if you don't have any mains cable).

the circuit boards do need some sort of spacers from the box (if metal) any comment on that

Absolutely essential! Yes, you will need to space the PCB away from the metal case. I would allow 10mm or more, just in case the PCB warps due to heat over time, or something.  Metal or plastic spacers can be used, or you can use bolts with lots of nuts (bolt passes through case, nut on top to secure it, now another nut for PCB to rest on, then the PCB, then a final nut to hold the PCB in place. Does that make sense?)

There are 4 mounting holes on the oscillator PCB and 6 on the main PCB, but you only need to use 4 of them (whichever ones are convenient for your case). If using metal spacers, the maximum diameter is 6mm (this is very important!). All mounting holes are 3mm diameter.

[Ulf]

Thanks Nigel, that helps a lot.

...Ulf

[Mudchute]

The links aren't working for me. Is it just me or?