Finished Controllers

[Alexandro]

Thank you.
The grey connector is a Neutrik power connector for the output.
The other 3 pin connector is the input for the tachometer's sensor which is to be attached under the platter of the deck.
 

[nigel]

Yes, it does look fantastic, the black glass is pure class 

I'm wrestling with my conscience over the rest of the construction, though. You have a completely unventilated case and have lined it with a very good (thermal) insulator. Why ever would you do that? Sorry, I don't get it 

[Alexandro]

Dear Nigel,
There is ventilation. It is just not showed because I forgot to picture the device from the bottom. There are openings under the PCBs which are sufficient for the proper airflow.
After 72 hours of non stop work the radiator was not hotter than after 1 hour of use.
As per your question why did I finished it with cork from the inside: There is no other reason except that I like it

[niclaspa]

Alexander, your controller looks awesome!     I love it when someone does something original!  Well done!   

But, I share Nigel's concern about the material in your box.  I like my electronic contraptions to be fully cased in metal.  It shields electrical fields and does not ignite if things go wrong inside.  But, I think the risk is small.  Back in the tube era, radios and TVs had wooden enclosures (although a metal chassis inside).

[Alexandro]

Thanks again. I do not think the design is something special - it is just a design that's suits best the other components of the system. As I said it was initially build for a friend who has more or less the same system as mine.
Regarding your concerns. I really do not think that the wooden case is a problem. I see almost no risk attached to this setup. I spoke with some friends who are involved in audio development and they assured me that the device and components used in it are completely safe and that the developer of the speed controller obviously knew what he was doing, hence it is safe to be build in a wooden case as I did.

Moreover  the monoblock power supply of my ГМ-70 amplifier is sharing the same concept as the controller. It is housed in a plywood case, cork finished from the inside and glass finished from the outside. Maybe this is the moment to share that there are 1250 volts going out of the each PSU and it is like this for the last 10 years and I have never had any problems with it. And in my audio room I have no air-conditioning at all. It is also south oriented and sometimes during the summer the inside temperature is not much lower than the outside one. 
Here are one of the PSU for the amplifier. Sorry but cant make pictures from the other side as the box is 60 kg and cant revert it




Nigel's speed controller is a gigantic innovation for me, or at least this is how I feel about it and as such I decided that it deserves to be finished in expensive and luxurious way. Sadly I really do not like aluminum and even do not like the feel of touching it. My own controller will be based on another concept which I will share with you all once I finish it.

Sorry for the off-topic.
Kind regards to all.
Alexander.

[Andr039]

That's not a PSU, Alexander, it's a mini-Nuclear Power Plant   
And nice build of NSC!
Alexander, you already gave me the link to your build of tachometer you used in NSC, but i failed to find it now.
Could you be so kind to post it again? i really would like to add this option to my NSC.
Thank you!!
best,

[nigel]

I spoke with some friends who are involved in audio development and they assured me that the device and components used in it are completely safe and that the developer of the speed controller obviously knew what he was doing, hence it is safe to be build in a wooden case as I did.

Well, I'm glad to hear that 

I can't fault your logic, Alexander, but we'll have to agree to a small difference of opinion 

Love that power supply, though 

[Alexandro]

Of course Nigel, this is why the forums are. Here in Bulgaria we use to say "as many people, as many opinions".

Dear Andrey, as I am currently on my phone, I will give you the link of the tachometer as soon as I get back home in front of the computer.
It is very easy to be implemented. Will upload also the needed software for the arduino.

Here is the schematics of the tachometer.

A small voltage capacitor should be added between pin3 and GND. The value should be between 1uf and 10uf. The purpose of it is to clean the pulses.

Best regards.

[fasterbyelan]

Some great work here Alexandra! Looking forward to learning more about the tachometer,  do you have the source code you can share?

Thanks,

Karl

[0TT0]

Some great work here Alexandra! Looking forward to learning more about the tachometer,  do you have the source code you can share?

Thanks,

Karl

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/analogue-source/301609-digital-tachometer-record-player-lcd-display-5.html , post # 44

[fasterbyelan]

 

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/analogue-source/301609-digital-tachometer-record-player-lcd-display-5.html , post # 44

 



Karl

[Alexandro]

Post 139 contains the tweaked version, created by Pyramid.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/analogue-source/301609-digital-tachometer-record-player-lcd-display-14.html#post5118370
Please see the details. Pyramid is using Pin2 for interrupt signal from the sensor so the hardware connection should be changed accordingly.
Best regards.

[Andr039]

Thank you, guys
Very useful info!
best,

[fasterbyelan]

Post 139 contains the tweaked version, created by Pyramid.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/analogue-source/301609-digital-tachometer-record-player-lcd-display-14.html#post5118370
Please see the details. Pyramid is using Pin2 for interrupt signal from the sensor so the hardware connection should be changed accordingly.
Best regards.

Thanks again.  I will be reading the diy thread later, only 18 pages!

Karl

[Jay]

Hi Karl,
  let us know how your implementation of the tachometer goes, with details for Dummies please