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Author Topic: Early L70  (Read 4620 times)
bluetomgold
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« Reply #30 on: June 04, 2017, 10:54:19 AM »

If you stick a little self adhesive spot of something (i've got craft foam from the kids) on the underneath of the arm where it meets the rest that works well, rather than covering the lift with rubber.

I have a couple of empty bearings (no spare spindles) with decent oilites in, if you want one.  I could swap the oilites for ptfe is you fancied trying that, but they need using with one of Jolley's collars to act as an oil well to keep the top bush immersed.  The ptfe works dry but sounds nicer wet.

Hi Paul, it's a good idea (worked well enough for SME)... but it's not going to work with the AT because of the sliding VTF weight.

Re the bearings that sounds brilliant, thanks! I'm off out now but I'll send you a PM a bit later. What are you running in yours?
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pde2000
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GB


« Reply #31 on: June 04, 2017, 12:34:26 PM »

The lift is near the bearing end of the arm, and the sliding weight doesn't get placed that far back does it?  Or is that for setting the zero vtf?  Anyway, i am using the teflon bushes and thrust plate in the gl78, but the gl70 is still original as there is no wear.  I just topped up the bearing with spindle oil.

The reason i experimented with the ptfe was that i wore out the gl78's bearing by weighing down the motor with lead.  When i tried replacing the oilites the new onese were rough and not a good fit.  Peter Reinders sold me a set of 3 empty bearing sleeves, with moderately worn oilites included so i have a backup.

The ptfe is actually tubing for carrying corrosive fluids that happens to be the right dimensions (id 9mm od 12mm), and the pad is cut from a length of solid 12mm rod which i cut thick enough to dispense with the separate steel plate, and just use the circlip.  it is a tight enough fit that it doesnt leak oil.  Werner's PEEK bearings could be much better (harder).
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Paul    in the ning nang nong, where the cows go bong, and the teapots jibber jabber joo.
bluetomgold
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« Reply #32 on: June 04, 2017, 05:04:17 PM »

The lift is near the bearing end of the arm, and the sliding weight doesn't get placed that far back does it?  Or is that for setting the zero vtf?

You've just answered your own question... Yep one of the main attractions of the AT arm is the ease of swapping cartridges. To balance the arm and set it to zero you need to push the sliding weight right back. I could use scales but this is quicker and simpler. I'm sure the right bit of rubber or something is hiding under my nose somewhere... needs to be fairly slim though as arm height/cue platform clearances are on the tight side as ever with the sunken lenco platter. Might try a bit of heatshrink, but it's not the grippiest stuff in the world... In any case it's not spoiling my enjoyment of the turntable.

Interesting re the bearing... So many options... undecided And there's not much wrong with it as it is...
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bluetomgold
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« Reply #33 on: July 18, 2017, 07:53:07 PM »

I've just posted this info in another thread, but I wanted to update here so I can keep a log of all the little jobs done. Apologies for repeating myself.

Finally got round to sorting my cueing issue - so far the solution seems to be working well.

I ordered some silicone rubber from eBay. It's good stuff, inexpensive and could find many uses in a Lenco project... it comes with a powdery coating which I cleaned off with IPA. Very sticky/tacky/grippy underneath the coating. Easy to cut neatly with scissors and a squirt of UHU seems to be holding it in place OK.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SILICONE-RUBBER-SHEET-200MMSQ-1-1-5-2-3-4-5-6-8-AND-10MMTHK/330788411590





Oh, and for the time being I've changed over to a Funk Firm Achromat which seems to have made an improvement. It took me a while to get used to the (very different) presentation but my conclusion is that it is more neutral, and while some perceived liveliness has been lost, I think that we're a step closer to the master tape, which can only be a good thing.

Next on the to-do list is to sort out the bias weight/thread I think...
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wer
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« Reply #34 on: July 20, 2017, 10:04:58 PM »


Next on the to-do list is to sort out the bias weight/thread I think...


Do you still remember the weight and the length, so i can make you a shorter one?
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Werner (wer - just my initials, not a nick!)
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colin
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In the beginning there was tape...........


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« Reply #35 on: July 20, 2017, 10:11:28 PM »

Do you still remember the weight and the length, so i can make you a shorter one?


Hi Werner,

Some AT1005 II info here -

http://www.freewebs.com/bornin50-3/at1005.htm

 cool

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bornin50 collects ............
bluetomgold
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« Reply #36 on: July 20, 2017, 11:49:17 PM »

Do you still remember the weight and the length, so i can make you a shorter one?


Thanks Werner, no need though, just realised that the one you've made me is going to work fine after all... Just need to adjust the position of the hanger... Silly me, sorry about that.

Again though a workable setup is made tricky by the Lenco's low platter height. My next one will definitely be a PTP...



Nice, thanks.
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I'm Tom
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« Reply #37 on: July 21, 2017, 12:30:32 PM »

Thank you Colin.
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Werner (wer - just my initials, not a nick!)
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bluetomgold
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« Reply #38 on: October 01, 2017, 10:41:09 PM »

Little update... been playing with a couple of other turntables so took the chance to tick a couple of small jobs off the to-do list.

First thing was I couldn't get it to go into 78... a little bit too much wood in the otherwise pretty much perfect plinth from Carl. Removed easily enough with a chisel although as you can see my work is nowhere near as neat as Carl's. I won't worry about that - it'll just be nice to spin some shellac on the old girl.



Next up I needed to replace the thrust pad in the bearing. The one I fitted previously was too tall to allow me to get the retaining screw back in. I wanted to keep the screw so Werner kindly sent me some replacements. Needed to use the thinnest (1.1mm) one in the end... all back together with Castrol multipurpose grease (IMO works really well with worn oilites...)

Looking at the picture now I wonder if the circlip is properly seated. Still, doesn't seem to be going anywhere.



Then I decided to replace and properly secure the mains lead. I haven't earthed it - I don't want to tempt fate when it comes to hum and I also want a nice flexible mains lead to avoid transmitting any vibration to the plinth. I know others will disagree, but IMO in terms of safety the main thing is to ensure cables are properly secured. I also fitted a P-clip on the tonearm cable to save strain on the connector, didn't take a photo though.



Anyway after that I set it up and put a record on. Now I have rubber on the cue platform and Werner's antiskating weight fitted it's all working pretty smoothly. There isn't much height to play with with the AT arm, my current 3mm funk mat, and the now rather tall (and still slightly bent) cue platform, so getting arm height and cue platform height optimised is fiddly. However it's working great now and not as fiddly in use as it is to set up. I like a deck that handles nicely and have been enjoying using a selection of relatively modern DJ style direct drive decks for that reason. The Lenco might not be quite as smooth to use as a 1210, but it sounds much better! On a similar note I have been using a selection of MM cartridges recently, but have come back to my old Supex SD900 and it's bliss.

The sound of the deck is just what I want - it sounds great whatever I play on it, surface noise is low and rumble non-existent. It is a long way from being the most transparent or detailed sounding turntable I have ever heard but the sound is supremely musical and has a really vivid presence, placing musicians (and even electronic sounds) right in the room with me. Much like my Croft preamp it may not sound as subjectively "accurate" as some equipment, but it does nothing that turns me off, rather it just makes me want to put records on.

Being that it sounds so good and is working fine I've tried to put to bed ideas of future upgrades and/or servicing jobs. I have a modified bearing waiting, as well as a clamp. And I feel slightly guilty that the motor is running in its original oil... but right now there's nothing "broke" so I'm resisting the urge to fix it... don't want to jinx it cos frankly I'd rather just enjoy the music.

What I'm saying is... maybe it's finished?  cheesy

And maybe, just maybe, it's a deck that I'll keep 'til I die.  undecided






« Last Edit: October 01, 2017, 11:39:34 PM by bluetomgold » Logged

I'm Tom
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« Reply #39 on: October 02, 2017, 12:20:10 AM »

A sweet deck, Tom. I love that it looks very attractive but at the same time it’s clear that it has lived a long and happy life  smiley
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« Reply #40 on: October 02, 2017, 12:38:40 AM »

Musicians in the room - now we're talking!  afro
Kudos on your excellent writings today Tom.
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vinyl>modded L78>Pickering XV-15 w/DTL-2S>Rabco SL8e>Lehmann Black Cube w/PWX>Simaudio I-5>Totem Sttaf
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« Reply #41 on: October 02, 2017, 03:23:43 AM »

It turned out looking great Tom.  Very interesting build thread.  I have the same hum/cartridge thingee with mine.  Hope to get it sorted out when the new arm arrives.

Does that new plinth use the stock spring mounts or is the table screwed down tight ?
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« Reply #42 on: October 02, 2017, 09:55:16 AM »

Thanks guys!

Pavel, yeah I always wanted this to look old. I love the wear on the top plate and the motor spindle and even the play in the main bearing. All signs of the happiness it's given over the years - and it means I don't have to be too precious about it - I can just use it. It's well run-in and hopefully good for another 50 plus years. The plinth is a bit new looking for my taste, but time will solve that I'm sure.

Does that new plinth use the stock spring mounts or is the table screwed down tight ?

Carl put two threaded inserts in the plinth just under the sunken part of the top plate, and it's also secured at the 4 stock mounts using studs which run right through the plinth. It's screwed down pretty tight and generally sounds very dead when tapped as it makes good contact with the plinth. It helps that the plinth is so well made - everything fits really well. The only part of the top plate that's not closely coupled to a big lump of wood is the area directly supporting the arm. It's in the back of my mind to try damping this part of the top plate, but as I say it is sounding good so I'm not too worried. The next time I spot a lump of Plasticine I may experiment.

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