Starting first L70 Project - where to begin...

[analogadikt]

If they are anything like my 3012, you can rotate the headshell collar to adjust the azimuth. If

Early 3012 do not have that slot and screw.
https://www.lencoheaven.net/forum/index.php?topic=35122.0

Even for those that have it, twisting the h/s just like as suggested by SME is rather crude. I gave up as I am afraid something could be damaged.

Regards,

Anwesh

[Poko]

Feeling good right now!

Took apart all the linkages, cleaned everything, lubed everything and wrapped what I could in teflon.

Ran the idler through the drill at high speed again and managed to smooth it out with progressively finer sandpaper ending with a 2000 grit.   Lined up the idler wheel so it was in line with the motor axle/platter - used the 200K CST silicone differential lube on the idler wheel bushing - and the thing is running pretty quiet!

Adjusted the speeds and 33 1/3 and 45 are spot on.

Just pulled the motor from the TT and now I get to tear it down, clean, lube it and reassemble.

It had been running for about an hour when I pulled it, and it was warm to the touch, not hot, but certainly warm. Is this normal?

And regarding the 3009 and its adjustments, I'll tackle that one when the arm arrives. Just need to get my test/set up record back from a friend.

Going to drill out the mount for the arm tomorrow, its all measured out so should be pretty straight forward...

(Famous last words...)

[Poko]

Next up - the motor...

Looks to be in good shape. Not much wear that I can see, although there was some seriously "chunky" old grease stuck in there

Curious to see how quiet the motor will be after this. Fingers crossed there will not be any noise/vibrations when I'm done...

[stratokaster83]

Early 3012 do not have that slot and screw.
https://www.lencoheaven.net/forum/index.php?topic=35122.0

Even for those that have it, twisting the h/s just like as suggested by SME is rather crude. I gave up as I am afraid something could be damaged.

Regards,

Anwesh

I agree that this method of azimuth adjustment is rather crude (actually, this sentiment applies to the classic SME tonearms in general). I only adjusted it slightly to get correct azimuth with my non-adjustable headshells. Otherwise it's much better to use a headshell that allows for azimuth adjustment.

[Poko]

Crude azimuth...

Yeah, I have yet to have access to a tonearm that has an easy adjustment protocol for azimuth. Always a fussy process. I use the Fremer method. Approx 5v signal, 1KHz tone L/R channel separately on test record, a volt meter and a conversion chart.

Certainly not an easy process, but I fin it to be well worth the effort. Better L/R channel separation and the benefit of a wider soundstage as a result of that.

[Poko]

Motor back together.

Now, going to let it run for a while and see how the bits work themselves in to each other.

Runs way more quiet than it did the first time I started it up. Also, where as I could "feel" the base vibrating before, I can no longer feel any vibration at all.

Should get some kind of tool to measure that

[Poko]

it's alive.It's Alive.IT'S ALIVE!!!

Fixed the seized axle - runs great!

Speed is stable and runs true.

Added some bracing to the temporary plinth - support for the main bearing and anchor points so the base can be tightened to the plinth.



Tonearm arrived!!!



Tonearm rewired. This will be done "better" when I do the final plinth.



Ben, the person I bought it off on Kijiji, also included the fluid damper for it. Very happy about that Slow going filling it with the 20000cst silicone



She ain't gonna win any beauty contests as she stands, but sure is lovely where it counts.



As the spindle is so short, my normal record clamp doesn't work, so I made one quickly and filled it with lead. Weighs in at 1kg. Also not pretty, but will do for now!



So incredibly happy with how this sounds!

Very excited to move on to the next phase, have to figure out a design and a plan on how to implement it.