Re gl75

[Chrisw1234]

Hi I recently purchased  a gl75 to go with my 72  i have ordered new  blocks, cleaned and oiled the main bearing, new phono cables an power cable,  but I keep reading posts about how bad the tonearms are, I would rather keep the original, and maybe upgrade the tonearm wires, what do you think, thanks Chris

[aamodtasan]

Hi - I have rewired a tonearm (Mogami shielded signal cable), but could not hear a big difference, compared to a l75 with original wiring I also have. It takes some DIY to do it, and if unsucessfull you have a wrecked arm. if you have good signals with a multimeter I would keep the original cables. If you still want to rewire, I would buy a new headshell suitable for modern carts first (the thakker HS-21 is one option) and a new cart perhaps and try that before a rewire,

just my opinion
hth
henrik

[Chip]

I’d keep the original arm and not upgrade the wires at present.  From other threads, re-wiring looks difficult, as henrik says.  If you don’t like the tonearm once you’ve used it for a while, then look for an alternative when you know what improvements you’re seeking.

I like the original arm, properly serviced.  Others don’t - each to their own.  Either way, good luck with the project and I hope that you enjoy the turntable  

[Chrisw1234]

Thanks guys think I'm lucky as mines not sagging on the back piece of the arm, I've owned loads of decks and can honestly say there top of my list , best £150 I've ever spent on the pair, the 75 still had the transit bolts In the original seller didn't know they had to be removed, looking forward to putting it back together will be keeping the pair, I was using a pioneer pl 518x but these are so much better, I'll prob end up with a big collection of lencos lol

[fetteler]

FWIW the transit bolts do not have to be removed, just loosened. Many folks (me included) have Lencos with the transit bolts in place, one good reason to leave them in is if you ever need to transport the unit you remove the platter and tighten the bolts then you are good to go

Steve.

[Amperex]

Listen to the original tonearm with the necessary new v blocks. If you do not care for it, adapters are available on ebay for Jelco and Ortofon AS-212 tone arms.

[Tobbe]

Agree with previous posters! ...and don´t forget that cartridge matching with the tonearm is important too. What cartridge and stylus are you planning to use? ...disclaimer: I think other members than yours truly know more about this

[bush baby]

Agree with previous posters! ...and don´t forget that cartridge matching with the tonearm is important too. What cartridge and stylus are you planning to use? ...disclaimer: I think other members than yours truly know more about this

Yup, your cartridge will make the most difference assuming the tonearm is mechanically in order… it’s a medium/heavy tonearm so cartridge compliance needs to be medium/low.
(Lots of info on compliance on the net if you’re not familiar with it, apologies if you are).

[Chrisw1234]

Hi thanks guys I'm currently using what I think is the original, but just ordered a new audio technica at110e stylus so will try that, I've tried a couple of others but not quite right, what would you suggest is a budget decent one ?

[Chip]

In my view the AT-VM95E works well on the standard arm for a modest spend.  It’s quite popular amongst the Lenco community.  For even less cash, the VM95C has also had good reviews, as have the more expensive stylus profiles.

[g8ina]

agreed, the VM is perfect for the standard Lenco arm, get a RigB (rigid body) and ML or paratrace stylus and you will (well, should...) be amazed.

One option for the arm is to swap the wand out for a carbon fibre arm, just make sure you accurately drill the hole for the knife edge. !!!

[wenig watt]

So,
I can say that the original arm with a fixed headshell with Panzerholz inlay sounds really good. the biggest problem is the V-block bearing. If they are ok you have to check the ball bearings for free play and smooth running and if necessary clean, grease and readjust them.
The Lencoheadshell is also because of the screw connection...well.... sometimes you are lucky, but most of the time you are not. A good point to rework, and definitely missing stiffness and damping here.
Wobble or compliance is not a useful substitute for damping, even if some people think it is. It can happen that unfavourable vibrations are reduced by a lack of stiffness in a construction, but information falls by the wayside. I will try to build an Panzerholz headshell with good bolting ( ) one day.

With kind regards

Arndt

[Chrisw1234]

Thanks I've ordered new v blocks and a ceramic bearing kit cleaned then oiled everywhere else, hopefully it will all turn up this weekend will keep me out of trouble.

[Kno]

And how doyou rate the 72?

[wenig watt]

I must admit that I do not know it. V-blocks are probably the same but the ball bearings are different. The headshell?
You should be able to judge for yourself how precise and stiff or damping the design is.
Since I have been building tonearms for some time now, modifying them or reusing parts, I have a "feeling" that comes from experience. Not much more than an opinion, my end point being a DIY Supatrac which already sounds quite good.

With kind regards

Arndt