Pioneer Idler

[mfrench]

The photograph in the other thread about PL7 shows a 50/60Hz selector switch. Can somebody explain how this works? First time I have seen this on any a/c motor driven tt.

Regards,

It doesn't do anything when I change the switch position. There are two different capacitor circuits that are connected to that switch, and active, but neither make a change in motor speed (at least on my unit)..

[mred]

this is  fantastic deck! Borders on knocking the Lenco out of rotation.

My Mac died over the weekend. I'm posting this from the Mac store.

Wow Mike thats quite an endorsement. I hope to use it while my l70 is down for completeing that project. I just cant bear to be with out so it has never gotten done.

Here are a couple as is.
Stamped top plate not cast likes Mike's, it has a broken dust cover, a drivers licence number scratched into the top plate, and when it runs reminds me of a cement mixer....








Ed

[Kent T]

Beautiful turntable. Should be a superb performer. Pioneer made nice gear even then. Interesting and uncommon. Thanks for posting those photos.

[hatehifi]

I take my comment back Ed, that's not the one I bid on! Double-shucks!

[mred]

I take my comment back Ed, that's not the one I bid on! Double-shucks!

I didnt think we were talking about the same one, this was on a local C list ad. I could have offered less but felt guilty as it was.
It is not usable as it is right now, so theres my justification.  I dont think it will take much to have up and running maybe an afternoon in the workshop if I get some spare time.

[mfrench]

Wow Mike thats quite an endorsement. I hope to use it while my l70 is down for completeing that project. I just cant bear to be with out so it has never gotten done.

Here are a couple as is.
Stamped top plate not cast likes Mike's, it has a broken dust cover, a drivers licence number scratched into the top plate, and when it runs reminds me of a cement mixer....




Ed

I have the PL7, which I guess is the heavy platter version of this series (or so I've seen it suggested as such). The platter is about half of the Lenco platter in weight, about 4lbs or so,... maybe a bit more; roughly half the Lenco weight.
What it does have is instant start-up speed, instantly jumps to speed, and, even in its ultimately thin-wall plywood plinth (less than 1/16" plywood), its a silent runner.

The bearing is fantastic in the PL7, really smooth, and a remarkably long spin down time.

If I had to suggest a negative towards it: No speed adjustability. Thats the only thing that keeps it below a Lenco/Bogen.

Be really cautious of the arm. The horizontal fulcrum screws, if removed, will allow the bearing balls to fall out. This had happened to mine, and I had to renovate that pivot; it works fine now, but is no longer of original design.

How does your unit turn off/on?
Mine has a power switch mechanism on the right front corner, and i do not see that with yours.
Trying to answer my own question,....
Does it turn on/off at the speed select dial?
I can run mine from the speed dial, as both the idler engage-disengage, and the power on-off; and/or, turn it on-off from the power switch.

[mred]

Mike
The speed dial is also on/off.
I need to look into this one as it is noisey as can be, and the idler does no line up with correct steps on the motor drive spindle.
From the breif few minutes I have had to look at it, I think the motor is sagging or not mounted correctly.
My first step is to look into motor noise and mounting and then go from there.
I will post an underside pic soon.

Ed

[mred]

I just looked at the motor from under the pan, and as I suspected the rubber mounts are shot.
They are smaller that my Rek o Kut ones, not sure what will fit. I will shelf it till I have more time.
Mike, your input is welcome here.

Ed

[mfrench]

can they be reamed to fit the rek-o-kut mounts?
I've been known to be a maniac with a dremel and unibit on occasion (with varying results).
Let me lift the skirt up on mine and take a peek and see what they're like. Its been a while since I dove into the works of mine, and I don't recall the arrangement offhand.
From what I've seen of these, mine is of a different design, in subtle ways, with a different motor and other features (like the casting of the top plate). Hopefully I can help.

[mred]

Here's shot of the underside.
Pretty basic, much smaller motor than yours. I did hold the motor as it should be in the pan and it was fairly quiet, but no Lenco quiet.
The motor bolts to a plate that is supported by three rubber bushings and those are toast.
I do suppose enlarging the holes would work. Certainly not an impossibilty. I like the way you think

Ed

[Chris65]

The motor bolts to a plate that is supported by three rubber bushings and those are toast.
I do suppose enlarging the holes would work.

Ed

Yes, I have exactly the same problem with my PL-7. The 3 rubber bushings have melted into tar, and the motor sags.
Be interested in how you solve this.

[tubav]

I had a TT that was obviously the same maker but re-badged.
I used silicone fuel line for R/C airplanes in the appropriate diameter on the motor mount studs.
Scrape and clean all the old crap off first.
There is a flywheel on the motor shaft that is used to control speed with
some kind of variable magnet device and mine was bent.
The bent flywheel introduced vibration.
I eventually gave up on the TT and gave it away.
I hope you will have better luck.
Have fun.
tubav

[hatehifi]

...
I used silicone fuel line for R/C airplanes in the appropriate diameter on the motor mount studs.
Scrape and clean all the old crap off first.
...

This forum is so full of thinking members ... way cool tubav

[mred]

This forum is so full of thinking members ... way cool tubav

I agree John, it is amazing how much collective mind power we have here!

Ed

[GP49]

On a record changer from the 1950s that I worked on for a customer in the late 1990s, the motor mount grommets had gone the way of all things rubber.  Standard rubber grommets from the hardware store would not work so I devised a way to hold the chassis and the motor steady and in proper alignment for several hours; then injected RTV silicone in between the mounting studs on the motor and the hole in the chassis.  Let it set up overnight.  The resulting mounts worked just fine and survived as long as I kept track of it, which was about ten years.  The disadvantage would be that they would be destroyed were it necessary to remove the motor, but the process could be done over again if that happened.