I want this (Tonearm pod ideas)

[Sarchi]

Or something like it.

http://www.vinylengine.com/library/toho/th-80.shtml

I really like the idea of a heavy (not necessarily big) tonearm pod made of cast iron or lead.  It doesn`t need to have height adjusters like the one here, which is probably unobtanium anyway.  It could sit outboard like this, or even on/in the plinth.  Still toying with ideas, I have started buying materials for both a CLD plywood and a solid block maple design.  (I do have two L75's.  but only one arm right now)



Thoughts?  Anyone know a machinist in my area that I could talk to?

[hatehifi]

Hi Noam,

good call!

Never seen that and I'd like one too - anybody in Europe want to make one? (Admin: Maybe this thread belongs in 'Wanted')

[Sarchi]

I was thinking that too..there are some very capable people here, if they happen to like this idea.

Another variation that might be easier to make- the armboard would be a stainless steel bar or similar (something very flat and sturdy), screwed onto the top of a wood enclosure (pod) that's about the height of the plinth, filled with leadshot.

-------------------------------------| <- steel bar armboard
-------------------------------------|
 |                 |
 |                 | <- hardwood pod filled with leadshot & plumbers goop
 |                 |
 |                 |
 |                 |
 ____________

[vincitsemper]

Hello,

It could probably be made fairly easily from a suitable size tin of sorts filled with molten lead.One could then drill holes in the lead and place some sort of nut and bolt system in it to provide adjustaments and the armboard itself could be fashioned from alluminium.

Cast iron would be perfect but not everyone has access to casting facilities. A soft drinks tin filled with lead perhaps? If you don't mind the cylindrical shape but I am sure that if you have a little think you could find a suitable shaped square tin. Molten lead is fairly easy to work with and shape accordingly and a trip to a local DIY shop will surely provide suitable nuts and bolts..

Either that or a handmade wooden box or block with hole at the bottom in which a lump of shaped lead could be stuck in.

Regards,

Victor.

[Lynnot]

Hello,

I've selected two links: AAS Gabriel and DIY pod. Both give us an idea of how to build
a tonearm pod of our own. Critical is the hight and the ability to get the tonearm
close enough to the platter / spindle.

And here is a picture of the Toho somewhere in Bavaria.

Rgds, Tony

[Sarchi]

Thanks Victor - I don't much fancy working with lead, so I was thinking of the lead shot (pellets) which they sell at the gun shops.  I've worked with these before, using that acrylic "goop" that comes in a tube and hardens after it's applied.  This came from the Teres diy days.

If there's a reason molten lead would be better..let me know?

I like the idea of aluminum for the armboard.  I'm looking at some carbon fiber sandwich options also, like the ones DragonPlate has.

[hatehifi]

How about Plexiglass Noam? That's been going through my mind.

[Sarchi]

Hello,

I've selected two links: AAS Gabriel and DIY pod. Both give us an idea of how to build
a tonearm pod of our own. Critical is the hight and the ability to get the tonearm
close enough to the platter / spindle.

And here is a picture of the Toho somewhere in Bavaria.

Rgds, Tony

Tony- thanks for those.  I think the other critical factors are i) weight, for all the obvious reasons, ii) leveling, also obvious, and iii) some good way of marking the platform underneath, so that if the pod (or turntable) got moved, you can reposition it and not have to realign the geometry.  For the latter, I may make "molds" around two of the pod's feet, i.e. using padded tape or something sticky like blutak.  This could also allow me to use the pod with another turntable, which seems like a major benefit to this "island" approach.

How about Plexiglass Noam? That's been going through my mind.

For the armboard or the pod itself? (or both)

[autobayer]

Noam.
Member stickmaker (aka Thomas Schick) and MiWi have made pods from slate: stable and cute.
The cutest ones are from Stefano Bertoncello, who has a nice blog: twogoodears.
He has them made of bell bronce and then painted in that industrial crimple look I simply love.
Weigh some 25 kgs (!) and cost A LOT, I think he said 600.- Euros when I asked him
Well, you could also use grey cat iron.
That is also a very good material for DIY counterweights in my experience - "sounds" also good.
Cheers
Chris

[hatehifi]

...

For the armboard or the pod itself? (or both)

Just the armboard

[vincitsemper]

Hello,

The reason why I mentioned molten lead is because it's fairly easy to shape and cast into whatever shape you like. Also in the UK asking for lead shot may attract funny looks,nowadays everyone is a tad paranoid about anything that could be misunderstood.

I was thinking that a box constructed from nice wood or copper filled with lead would look great,bit of a height problem on a standard Lenco though however short the box might be!

Regards,

Victor.

[rfgumby]

The poured lead will shrink about 8% as it cools, so take that into account if you pour your own pod.

[vincitsemper]

Hello,

Hey Scott,I had no idea lead shrunk after cooling. Why would that happen?

Regards,

Victor.

[Lupusceleri]

Hello,

Hey Scott,I had no idea lead shrunk after cooling. Why would that happen?

Regards,

Victor.

When matter is in liquid state the molecules it is made up from are further apart than in solid form - if they were closer together, it'd increase the melting point further and make the material stronger.

I'm sure you've seen a plastic bucket of water or a watering can break in the winter because the water in it froze? That is a similar idea, but water expands a bit if it freezes hard and that kills the container.

[The Grand Wazoo]

All materials expand with heat & contract with cooling. 

Train tracks have gaps in them (hence the clickety-clack noise of trains as they go over the expansion gaps)otherwise they would buckle on a warm day
Bridge decks often have a break in them for the same reason
Long runs of pipe or those that carry hot liquids or steam have to have joints like bellows built into them